Kshatriyas, Tibetans, Beer, and Lumbini... but no Pokhara

Like I say, Nepal is rapidly becoming my second favorite country on Earth (Thailand is, of course, my favorite).

I got waylaid here in Kathmandu--I was planning a whirlwind tour to Lumbini (birthplace of Buddha), then on to Pokhara and a view of the Annapurna Himal, but it's a lot of bussing, and I booked a flight back to BKK for Sunday (Mother's day-- Happy one to all mom's!), so I don't have the time to go to Pokhara. I was supposed to be on a bus as I write, but last night I went out, drank beer, played pool, and enjoyed listening to Grateful Dead tunes at a bar till about 10 pm (very late here). On the way home, I stopped off at this Nepali disco/dance club. It was pretty much like a Hindi film musical, with local gals wearing provocative saris (as provocative as it gets for Nepal--which isn't very) lip sync singing and "drilling" on a gayly-lit, mirrored stage area to tunes by such film stars as Meera, Aishwarya Rai, Rani Mukherjee, and others. Well, I had to see it, right?

One thing I've noticed is the difference between the Hindu and the Buddhists here in Nepal. While there is a great mix of religious iconography--Hindu gods mixed in with Buddhist images, and vice versa-- the people I feel more affinity towards are the Tibetans. Generally they still remain in the high altitude areas of the Himals, and their faith and devotion make meeting them and staying with them a real joy. But even in Kathmandu, they stand apart from the Hindi Castes.

One thing I do like about Buddhism is the no-nonsense approach to life-no squabbling about whether there is or isn't a God (what is the use in such talk-- will "knowing" one way or other make this life any more secure? happy? less stressful--Sheesh!), and they use sila (morality) every day, with everyone and everything. In short, I trust the Tibetans more than the Hindus when it comes to transactions and conversation. I stay with a Tibetan family here, and they've been so straightforward and nice it's been such a treat to know them. Unfortunately, Tibetans are underrepresented in Nepali government, politics being dominated by Hindu Brahmans and Kshatriyas. Not only have the Tibetans been stripped of their sovereign land in the 50s, but they have little say in governing themselves in othr lands. Well, that certainly doesn't prevent them from leading a happy (in the Buddhist sense) and fulfilling life.

So, onto Lumbini tomorrow...once I shake off this hangover.